Since arriving in Ghana, I've idealistically been waiting for a eureka moment - a point when I would realize a greater truth that could not have been found if I had not embarked on my safari. I'm still working on it - and to be honest, it may never come in the way that I intend it to, but if there is one thing that I have been "converted" to*, it's pan-Africanism. *(Sorry evangelicals, looks like this one's been taken)
The basic idea of pan-Africanism is that since Africans have a shared geography, culture and experience of colonialism and since the borders of African countries were imposed on European powers anyways, the answer for security and prosperity is for the nations to unite under a common banner.
Kwame Nkrumah, the leader of Ghana's independence drive and later president (and later quasi-dictator and later deposed quasi-dictator) was one of the loudest voices and one of the greatest instigators of not only African decolonization but pan-Africanism. Not only did he lead the first African country to proclaim independence from a European nation and make huge inroads for its development, but he led the effort to create a United States of Africa.
So it's only fitting that they have an enormous monument to him in downtown Accra, where he is buried. Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park is probably the most beautiful public space in the country, with lawns, trees and a giant pool with fountains in human likenesses leading up to a giant monument under which Nkrumah himself is buried. The structure is shaped like the bottom half of a tree: either celebrating the growth of Ghana/Africa that he initiated, or mourning the progress that was "cut down" when he was lost (whichever explanation you believe). In front of the tree is a bronze statue of Nkrumah walking and pointing, recalling his famous Cold War-era statement: "We face neither West nor East; we face forward." When Joe (also a converted pan-Africanist) and I arrived in the morning, the park was empty and suprisingly quiet. The only noise we could hear was the faraway sound of drums and singing (I'm not making this up), which made the memorial that much more solemn. We were humbled by the presence of such a man who, for better or for worse, had an immense impact on the nation and continent.
The park also has a museum that has many fascinating photos of the man, but is rather sparse when it comes to artefacts. Nonetheless, they had his famous walking stick (rumored to have magical juju powers) and the shovel that commenced construction of the Akosombo Dam that created Lake Volta and was supposed to provide cheap power for the country, which didn't quite happen. That shovel could be the finest piece of historical irony in the country.
Also of note: the park has various young trees with plaques indicating which African leader planted which tree. There is a 15 year-old mango planted by Nelson Mandela, which will surely become more majestic with age (and whose fruit will be sweet for many).
After that, Joe and I took his moto to a pan-Africanist bookshop at the Trade Fair and I bought Nkrumah's seminal book, Africa Must Unite - and I'm relishing every page of it. There seems to be no end to the great ideas and quotes contained within. It's a geeky end to a geeky field trip, but we loved it. I hope the memorial will inspire young leaders for many years to come.
"I can see no security for African states unless African leaders, like ourselves, have realized beyond all doubt that salvation for Africa lies in unity... for in unity lies strength, and as I see it, African states must unite or sell themselves out to imperialist and colonialist exploiters for a mess of pottage, or disintegrate individually."
-Kwame Nkrumah
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