It occurred to me that I promised Christine, my program director at Carleton, about a month ago that I would post some photos of campus for next year's fresh meat - I mean, prospective exchange participants. I believe the application deadline is sometime in mid-January, so I hope they can help. Cheers!
CAMPUS - The University of Ghana at Legon is a giant, sprawling campus that takes a while to walk across (up to 20 minutes to some buildings from the hostel). While it's no Shangri-La, it has some great sights. Here are some of them...
Great Hall and Bell Tower - The "trademark" symbols of campus (if you look at their website) are pretty majestic, but it's too bad you'll only see them when you register at the start of the year and when you take your exams. Note the Far Eastern architecture and socialist symbols.
Akuafo Hall - They sure know how to decorate a residence courtyard. One of the nicer spots on campus.
Kwame Nkrumah Centre For African Studies - One of the nicer department buildings. Most are not so lavishly decorated and have no bronze statues on their lawn.
Crowd - The campus revolves around a main concourse, parts of which are closed off to traffic. They may not know how much about urban planning, but this street is a winner. Note the giant trees lining the street. Those will come in handy when the sun is high in the sky.
Balme Library - The other "symbol" of the university, it's a fantastic structure and I like studying there, due to its great old-school academic vibe. While it is one of the finest libraries in West Africa, it's a shame that many books get stolen or "misplaced" for it to be truly useful. Sadly, the best books are kept under lock and key and you can only borrow/photocopy them within the library. The card catalogue, photocopy and checkout systems need a major overhaul, so as great as it is, it doesn't compare to Carleton's library.
HOSTEL - The International Student Hostel is the nicest residence on campus and if you are Ghanaian, you probably have to "know" someone to get in. It's pretty decent, save for the odd water/power outage and it's open-concept cubic shape is great for catching cross-breezes, even on the hottest and driest days as well as for yelling out to people across the courtyard. If only it weren't built on the edge of campus! I don't have any photos of the rooms uploaded, but each has a bed, closet, desk, chair, nightstand, and easy chair (x2 for double rooms) as well as a porch/balcony.
The hostel itself has four floors (no elevators - in fact, I have yet to use one in Ghana) each has two kitchens with sinks, elements and a fridge. Each floor also has four washrooms with showers (2 male, 2 female). There is one internet cafe (whose quality greatly varies), a convenience store (the proprietor is quite the character) and a kitchen that makes decent breakfast, lunch and dinner. The courtyard is great for playing football or frisbee.
The higher up you are, the better the view from your balcony. And those West African sunsets are a sight to behold.
Dig those mango trees.
CAVEAT EMPTOR: Now that you've seen the rosy side of campus, it should be warned that not all of the university looks so picturesque. In fact, some of it can be downright dull and depressing. Simple things such as lawns are a challenge to grow, so grass doesn't grow evenly everywhere, if at all. The planning of campus leaves much to be desired, when compared to Carleton's efficient use of space. Most buildings are one or two floors and are built with ample space in between them. You may even walk by the odd pile of garbage waiting to be picked up by the trucks - or worse - waiting to be burned.
Stray dogs are a common sight on campus, especially in the quieter areas. If you are a dog lover, then maybe it'll remind you of home. Just don't pet them if they don't have owners. Here's an example of an open field that couldn't hope to grow anything green on it. Now it's a soccer field.
The other residences aren't as well-equipped as ISH. Their utilities are sketchy and due to the shortage of student housing on campus, there's a common practice of "perching" i.e. renting out floor space to other students illegally, so a room that is designed to house 4 can easily hold 8. While some have a royal architectural flavour, others are more Soviet-inspired and look pretty dull. Consider Mensah Sarbah Hall's Annexes.
Dryers on campus are also a luxury. While ISH residences have a common area for hanging clothes on a line, few other residences have such a luxury!
Also, When the British colonized what was then the Gold Coast, instead of building underground sewers alongside roads, they just built open concrete gutters, so most water/waste on campus flows through them. They're usually dry, but when the rains come, the stagnant water is a great place for mosquitoes to breed (read: malaria). At least the French had the good sense to cover up their gutters. On the lighter side, it's something of a right of passage to fall in one at least once while here!
So you take the good, you take the bad and when you're done, there you have - the University of Ghana at Legon. This is a limited picture of the place, but it's better than the picture I had before I came (which was the website photo of the Great Hall and Bell Tower. Love it or hate it, that's my home this year. Welcome to an African education!
The word "safari," in Swahili, means "journey"; it has nothing to do with animals. - Paul Theroux
Thursday, December 29, 2005
Anthony 4 - Mr. Obruni 0
Not only have Maleaha and I been hanging out in Dublin with Anthony for the last two weeks, but his mother and brother have come to stay for a week as well. As happy as I am for him (very much so), I can't help but feel a bit envious of him. Not only does he get friends travelling from two different continents to visit him, but family as well! That boy's got it made here alright...
Ah well, at least his mom and bro are staying in a hotel. Otherwise, there wouldn't be much to sleep on in this apartment. 'Nuff said.
Ah well, at least his mom and bro are staying in a hotel. Otherwise, there wouldn't be much to sleep on in this apartment. 'Nuff said.
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
A Midwinter Night's Dream
I awoke sometime last night and looked outside. I looked down to the street and noticed something moving under the streetlight... was that SNOW falling?
Indeed it was! I quickly put on a sweater and went outside, where the sky was filled with white fluffy flakes. They melted as they hit the ground, but it was a joy to see it, all the same. I went for a walk around the block downtown and it was gone by the time I reached Anthony's apartment, but it was worth it. There were few people out at that time of night (whatever that time was) and there would be no trace that it ever came. It was like a strange dream that only I could remember...
I had said that if it snowed even once while I was here, I'd consider it a successful trip. Check that one off - and I've still got two weeks left!
Sweet.
Indeed it was! I quickly put on a sweater and went outside, where the sky was filled with white fluffy flakes. They melted as they hit the ground, but it was a joy to see it, all the same. I went for a walk around the block downtown and it was gone by the time I reached Anthony's apartment, but it was worth it. There were few people out at that time of night (whatever that time was) and there would be no trace that it ever came. It was like a strange dream that only I could remember...
I had said that if it snowed even once while I was here, I'd consider it a successful trip. Check that one off - and I've still got two weeks left!
Sweet.
Tuesday, December 27, 2005
St. Stephen's Day Extravaganza
As many of you may have already known, or even guessed, I've got roots in this country. Unfortunately, most of them (namely my entire dad's side) are from the North, so there's not much to be found in the way of geneaology around here.
Fortunately, my Aunt Patty married my Uncle Sean, who emigrated from the Emerald Isle and still has family here. Namely, his sister Jetta and her husband Jimmy. They graciously invited us for St. Stephen's Day lunch (it's what they call Boxing Day, 'round these parts) and we accepted. I was keen to see them after only meeting them once a number of years ago.
They live in Dún Laoghaire (pronounced "done-leery"), the major port out of Dublin and also a very well-to-do neighbourhood these days. Supposedly Bono of U2 lives somewhere around town...
We had quite a lovely time, drinking tea and cookies. Then Jetta's sons took us for a pre-lunch drink (quel bonne idee!), which turned out to be a lovely country drive (We even passed by Enya's castle. That's right, she lives in a castle.) all the way up to "undoubtedly the highest pub in the country", Johnny Fox's. A delicious two pints of Guinness later, I was ready for lunch. They fed us very well and it was great to hang out with a family and drink tea and wine, since I can't remember the last time I got to do that! We'll probably get the opportunity to meet with them again and I hope we do, because for me it's important to have family as well as friends.
Fortunately, my Aunt Patty married my Uncle Sean, who emigrated from the Emerald Isle and still has family here. Namely, his sister Jetta and her husband Jimmy. They graciously invited us for St. Stephen's Day lunch (it's what they call Boxing Day, 'round these parts) and we accepted. I was keen to see them after only meeting them once a number of years ago.
They live in Dún Laoghaire (pronounced "done-leery"), the major port out of Dublin and also a very well-to-do neighbourhood these days. Supposedly Bono of U2 lives somewhere around town...
We had quite a lovely time, drinking tea and cookies. Then Jetta's sons took us for a pre-lunch drink (quel bonne idee!), which turned out to be a lovely country drive (We even passed by Enya's castle. That's right, she lives in a castle.) all the way up to "undoubtedly the highest pub in the country", Johnny Fox's. A delicious two pints of Guinness later, I was ready for lunch. They fed us very well and it was great to hang out with a family and drink tea and wine, since I can't remember the last time I got to do that! We'll probably get the opportunity to meet with them again and I hope we do, because for me it's important to have family as well as friends.
Monday, December 26, 2005
A Christmas of a Different Colour
CHRISTMAS EVE
Dinner at Michelle's was great. Although he was worried as to how his skill compared with his mother's, Anthony cooked the turkey and the potatoes to perfection and we had some salad and bread to go along with it (Maleaha, ever the black sheep, ate leftover chinese food. Does sweet-and-sour pork count as traditional Christmas dinner?). Dinner went to the sounds of the Tragically Hip and was finished off with irish coffee. We hung out, drank and ate chocolate for most of the night. After a while, Maleaha and I went for a walk to let the turkey/pork settle. By evening, all the stores and pubs had closed down and the streets of Dublin were empty - 180 degrees from only a few hours ago, when one would have to get a lift and surf the crowds over the streets. We swung by Anthony's house, where his roommates were watching "Love Actually". I'm always a sucker for sappy holiday movies.
CHRISTMAS DAY
We all woke up early (9:30, anyone?), put on our Sunday best and went to the local pro-cathedral (seriously, it was a ten-minute walk) for Christmas mass. Not only was it one of the most beautiful houses of worship I have ever been in, but this mass was conducted by the Cardinal himself! The giant choir, string quartet and organist finished the celebration with a chorus of "Alleluia!", to our enjoyment.
We spent the rest of the day making grilled cheese sandwiches, watching movies and that's about it. Just an enjoyable day of rest, like any lazy Sunday. We didn't even exchange presents until the early evening, simply because it seemed so secondary to us enjoying our day. Church, relaxation, lack of materialism. Could it be that we had an "ideal" Christmas? Nah, otherwise I wouldn't have bought a phonecard to call my whole family up as they were having dinner! We agreed that this would be the last one they celebrate while I'm half a world away.
This year's Christmas celebrations were quite a bit different compared to anything else I've ever done. It was the first time that I'd not been at home, opening presents and eating breakfast, going to church with mom and then gathering with the family for more presents and a massive dinner. I knew that to not kill myself over the holidays, I'd need to 1) be somewhere cold, 2) be with good friends and 3) be with Maleaha. It looks like I got all three of my wishes this year. And I couldn't be much happier.
Happy Christmas, everyone!
Dinner at Michelle's was great. Although he was worried as to how his skill compared with his mother's, Anthony cooked the turkey and the potatoes to perfection and we had some salad and bread to go along with it (Maleaha, ever the black sheep, ate leftover chinese food. Does sweet-and-sour pork count as traditional Christmas dinner?). Dinner went to the sounds of the Tragically Hip and was finished off with irish coffee. We hung out, drank and ate chocolate for most of the night. After a while, Maleaha and I went for a walk to let the turkey/pork settle. By evening, all the stores and pubs had closed down and the streets of Dublin were empty - 180 degrees from only a few hours ago, when one would have to get a lift and surf the crowds over the streets. We swung by Anthony's house, where his roommates were watching "Love Actually". I'm always a sucker for sappy holiday movies.
CHRISTMAS DAY
We all woke up early (9:30, anyone?), put on our Sunday best and went to the local pro-cathedral (seriously, it was a ten-minute walk) for Christmas mass. Not only was it one of the most beautiful houses of worship I have ever been in, but this mass was conducted by the Cardinal himself! The giant choir, string quartet and organist finished the celebration with a chorus of "Alleluia!", to our enjoyment.
We spent the rest of the day making grilled cheese sandwiches, watching movies and that's about it. Just an enjoyable day of rest, like any lazy Sunday. We didn't even exchange presents until the early evening, simply because it seemed so secondary to us enjoying our day. Church, relaxation, lack of materialism. Could it be that we had an "ideal" Christmas? Nah, otherwise I wouldn't have bought a phonecard to call my whole family up as they were having dinner! We agreed that this would be the last one they celebrate while I'm half a world away.
This year's Christmas celebrations were quite a bit different compared to anything else I've ever done. It was the first time that I'd not been at home, opening presents and eating breakfast, going to church with mom and then gathering with the family for more presents and a massive dinner. I knew that to not kill myself over the holidays, I'd need to 1) be somewhere cold, 2) be with good friends and 3) be with Maleaha. It looks like I got all three of my wishes this year. And I couldn't be much happier.
Happy Christmas, everyone!
Saturday, December 24, 2005
Christmas Wishes
O Holy Night
The stars are brightly shining
It is the night of our dear Saviour's birth...
December 24th: While it doesn't feel like it at all, it's already Christmas Eve and the streets of Dublin are packed with people running around like headless chickens trying to get their shopping finished, while Anthony and I are making sure we've stocked up on enough turkey, cranberry and cider to get us through the next few days. Maleaha is lounging on the couch, as per usual...
Tonight we're going to have Christmas Eve dinner and will be staying over at the house of someone I've never met before. Her name is Michelle and she's from Saskatoon, so we'll be having a very Canadian Christmas. Tonight there will be caesar salad, vegetarian lasagna and garlic bread for all as well as turkey, cranberry and potatoes for Anthony and I (call us traditional). We'll finish it off with some Irish coffee and hobnobs... it'll be the best darned Christmas Eve away from home I could hope for!
*****
Anyways, I want to extend my warmest Christmas wishes to everyone. For those back at home, I wish I could be there for the traditional dinner with the family and traditional New Year's at Foy's, but remember that I'm there with you in spirit and I'll be home for Victoria Day...
For those in Ottawa, I definitely miss you and your fine city and wish I could be caroling, partying, skating the canal and all that jazz. I'll see you again by next September...
For those in Ghana, I hope your Christmas cheer is as warm as the weather. I hope your adventures are exciting and I'll be back with you much sooner...
For all of my friends scattered about the world (in the US, Norway, Germany, Palestine... wherever!), I hope your strange and foreign Christmas celebrations rock, too!
Happy Christmas to you all.
Mr. Obruni
The stars are brightly shining
It is the night of our dear Saviour's birth...
December 24th: While it doesn't feel like it at all, it's already Christmas Eve and the streets of Dublin are packed with people running around like headless chickens trying to get their shopping finished, while Anthony and I are making sure we've stocked up on enough turkey, cranberry and cider to get us through the next few days. Maleaha is lounging on the couch, as per usual...
Tonight we're going to have Christmas Eve dinner and will be staying over at the house of someone I've never met before. Her name is Michelle and she's from Saskatoon, so we'll be having a very Canadian Christmas. Tonight there will be caesar salad, vegetarian lasagna and garlic bread for all as well as turkey, cranberry and potatoes for Anthony and I (call us traditional). We'll finish it off with some Irish coffee and hobnobs... it'll be the best darned Christmas Eve away from home I could hope for!
*****
Anyways, I want to extend my warmest Christmas wishes to everyone. For those back at home, I wish I could be there for the traditional dinner with the family and traditional New Year's at Foy's, but remember that I'm there with you in spirit and I'll be home for Victoria Day...
For those in Ottawa, I definitely miss you and your fine city and wish I could be caroling, partying, skating the canal and all that jazz. I'll see you again by next September...
For those in Ghana, I hope your Christmas cheer is as warm as the weather. I hope your adventures are exciting and I'll be back with you much sooner...
For all of my friends scattered about the world (in the US, Norway, Germany, Palestine... wherever!), I hope your strange and foreign Christmas celebrations rock, too!
Happy Christmas to you all.
Mr. Obruni
Friday, December 23, 2005
People's Republic of Cork/A Whole Lotta Blarney
So we're here for only two days and suddenly Anthony is taking us out for a "weekend trip", as he calls it whenever he has a few days off from bartending in the trendy/touristy "Temple Bar" area of Dublin. So we hopped a bus to the city of Cork in the Southwest (does this process sound familiar to you all?)...
The ride, it being my first encounter with the Irish countryside, was beautiful. Small fields divided by old stone walls and small hedges, some with old country houses, some with sheep - just like I had imagined. The only thing I couldn't believe was that despite the fact that it was a few days until Christmas, everything was so... green.
They don't call it the Emerald Isle for nothing.
Cork is quite the splendid little city. It's over a millenia old, but it has a healthy mix of old and new. Somehow, it got named the "European Capital of Culture" and is really showing itself off this year. Methinks there's a load of EU money sprucing up the place.
We wandered into the Bru hostel and bar (brilliant combination), which was pretty sweet, and got a room for a song. Check yourself in there if you're ever in town - you won't be disappointed. We spent the rest of the day wandering about and Anthony and I spent the evening pub-crawling. All's I can say from that evening is I'd like to thank Bulmer's Cider, Burger King and the good folks of Cork Country for an excellent night out.
The next day, we took the bus to nearby Blarney Castle, home of the infamous Blarney Stone. The town of Blarney (the name, basically Gaelic for "bullcrap") was quaint and picturesque (definitely a reoccuring theme here), the castle was amazing and the stone was... awkward. I haven't kissed anything that cold since high school. *ba-dum-ching!* But seriously, folks... the castle was explorable and the surrounding grounds made for a pleasant walk. There were ancient caves and a Druid stone circle. It was definitely like being like in medieval times (the period, not the restaurant). I don't think I've ever been in a real castle before!
We took it easy for the rest of the trip. Some drinks, some pizza, some walking around town. Nothing too crazy. Another night, morning and bus ride later and now we're back in Dublin. Suddenly it's two days before Christmas and we're making plans for the big day. I'm stoked...
The ride, it being my first encounter with the Irish countryside, was beautiful. Small fields divided by old stone walls and small hedges, some with old country houses, some with sheep - just like I had imagined. The only thing I couldn't believe was that despite the fact that it was a few days until Christmas, everything was so... green.
They don't call it the Emerald Isle for nothing.
Cork is quite the splendid little city. It's over a millenia old, but it has a healthy mix of old and new. Somehow, it got named the "European Capital of Culture" and is really showing itself off this year. Methinks there's a load of EU money sprucing up the place.
We wandered into the Bru hostel and bar (brilliant combination), which was pretty sweet, and got a room for a song. Check yourself in there if you're ever in town - you won't be disappointed. We spent the rest of the day wandering about and Anthony and I spent the evening pub-crawling. All's I can say from that evening is I'd like to thank Bulmer's Cider, Burger King and the good folks of Cork Country for an excellent night out.
The next day, we took the bus to nearby Blarney Castle, home of the infamous Blarney Stone. The town of Blarney (the name, basically Gaelic for "bullcrap") was quaint and picturesque (definitely a reoccuring theme here), the castle was amazing and the stone was... awkward. I haven't kissed anything that cold since high school. *ba-dum-ching!* But seriously, folks... the castle was explorable and the surrounding grounds made for a pleasant walk. There were ancient caves and a Druid stone circle. It was definitely like being like in medieval times (the period, not the restaurant). I don't think I've ever been in a real castle before!
We took it easy for the rest of the trip. Some drinks, some pizza, some walking around town. Nothing too crazy. Another night, morning and bus ride later and now we're back in Dublin. Suddenly it's two days before Christmas and we're making plans for the big day. I'm stoked...
Dubh Linn
After our arrival in Dublin, Maleaha and I were ready for a nice long rest. After getting up at 7AM every morning for four months, it was quite odd to wake at 10:30 (or "half-ten... pretty early" for Anthony, apparently). I just can't tell time by the sun here, like I can in Accra. No matter, because Anthony was up and ready to take us for a tour of the town...
Dublin is a suprisingly cosmopolitan city. We expected it from London (where Maleaha noted the lack of British accents), but not so much here. It seems that for once, Ireland is host to scores of immigrants (rather than emigrants), mostly Eastern European, so you're just as likely to be served by someone from Dublin as you are Poland. At the same time, you also have waves of tourists coming to reconnect with their roots (check two extra on that one) or just get drunk in a pub. And there are pubs EVERYWHERE. Adrian claims that St. John's, Newfoundland has the highest concentration of pubs in the world and if that's true, Dublin probably comes in a close second.
To complete this picture, it's Christmastime. The streets and promenades are filled with shoppers, carolers and hawkers and everything is decked out in seasonal decor. Lights, bows, garlands and all - it's a beautiful sight to behold. Mind you, it isn't quite like Rideau St. in Ottawa, but I'm enjoying it all the same.
Our tour guide Anthony took us around the downtown to see the shops, the cathedrals, the statues and the landmarks of the city and I'm sure we only saw a fraction of the city's interesting sights. In the evening, we went on a "Ghost Tour" of the city on a double-decker bus led by a really great old storyteller with a flair for scaring the bejeezus out of us. He'd tell us stories about ghosts, apparitions, the walking dead, etc. and would talk about the sinister places that they were encountered. Almost every story would end with, "and here's where it happened. The place is closed to the public at night for obvious reasons... but I so happen to have a key to the place." Yikes.
Anthony says that Dublin is like a hard girl that you have to slowly fall in love with and maybe it was the opposite for me, but I took an instant shining to it. Maleaha may disagree with me on this one, but I think Dublin is a fantastic city. It's expensive to live in (the numbers are all the same, but the prices are in euros!), touristy and don't even think about owning a car, but I really dig it. It's not too big, feels warm, there's so much history behind it and the beer tastes great. Maybe it's because it reminds me so much of Ottawa? Ah well, it's good to be here...
Dublin is a suprisingly cosmopolitan city. We expected it from London (where Maleaha noted the lack of British accents), but not so much here. It seems that for once, Ireland is host to scores of immigrants (rather than emigrants), mostly Eastern European, so you're just as likely to be served by someone from Dublin as you are Poland. At the same time, you also have waves of tourists coming to reconnect with their roots (check two extra on that one) or just get drunk in a pub. And there are pubs EVERYWHERE. Adrian claims that St. John's, Newfoundland has the highest concentration of pubs in the world and if that's true, Dublin probably comes in a close second.
To complete this picture, it's Christmastime. The streets and promenades are filled with shoppers, carolers and hawkers and everything is decked out in seasonal decor. Lights, bows, garlands and all - it's a beautiful sight to behold. Mind you, it isn't quite like Rideau St. in Ottawa, but I'm enjoying it all the same.
Our tour guide Anthony took us around the downtown to see the shops, the cathedrals, the statues and the landmarks of the city and I'm sure we only saw a fraction of the city's interesting sights. In the evening, we went on a "Ghost Tour" of the city on a double-decker bus led by a really great old storyteller with a flair for scaring the bejeezus out of us. He'd tell us stories about ghosts, apparitions, the walking dead, etc. and would talk about the sinister places that they were encountered. Almost every story would end with, "and here's where it happened. The place is closed to the public at night for obvious reasons... but I so happen to have a key to the place." Yikes.
Anthony says that Dublin is like a hard girl that you have to slowly fall in love with and maybe it was the opposite for me, but I took an instant shining to it. Maleaha may disagree with me on this one, but I think Dublin is a fantastic city. It's expensive to live in (the numbers are all the same, but the prices are in euros!), touristy and don't even think about owning a car, but I really dig it. It's not too big, feels warm, there's so much history behind it and the beer tastes great. Maybe it's because it reminds me so much of Ottawa? Ah well, it's good to be here...
Tuesday, December 20, 2005
The Rocky Road To Dublin
I awoke Sunday morning, realizing that I was no longer in a hot, equatorial African country, but instead a cold, Northwest European one. It was a strange feeling, indeed. After breakfast (FYI Dad, it was alright), we packed our bags and walked to Euston Station, awaiting our train to Wales.
Trains in England are pretty decent. They should be, considering they invented the damn things! We rode a quasi-futuristic Virgin train (Richard Branson must own half of the UK) and it was a really great way to see the English countryside: gently rolling hills, fields of sheep and even a pair of deer! Every town on the way seemed to be the same: old brown brick houses with tiny backyards, church steeples rising above the sea of rooves and the odd factory. It must seem to be terribly boring to the average Brit, but I really dug it.
It got dark a little after 4PM. Considering it rises after 8AM and hangs low all day, giving it the impression of always being early morning or late afternoon, it's been quite a change from Ghana, in which the sun rises at 6AM, travels almost directly overhead and doesn't go down until after 5. By the time we changed trains and went into Wales, it was pitch black, save for some town lights and the odd illuminated Welsh sign (I didn't know you could spell "Flint" with two Fs).
After a curious delay involving a strike and donairs (definitely NOT traditional Welsh fare), we departed Holyhead on a high-speed ferry towards Dublin. And let me tell you, the Irish Sea is quite rough. People on the ship were periodically stumbling every 6 seconds from the waves and Maleaha herself was feeling pretty queasy after only 15 minutes. She spent the next two hours looking and feeling greener than the Emerald Isle itself. Suddenly a ferry across the sea didn't appear to be as romantic as I had hoped.
After 10, we arrived at Dublin Port. Anthony was there waiting for us and escorted us onto the bus towards downtown, where his apartment is. We walked down the Liffey, the river that splits the city in two - the prosperous South and the rougher North. Guess which side Anthony lives on? No matter, it's a nice place, with interesting roommates (French, German and Swiss - it's a freakin' UN conference in here) and it looks like Anthony has a pretty sweet deal here.
Anthony is an awesome tour guide as well. He showed us a bit of downtown and we got a pint of Guinness to celebrate before hitting the hay...
Trains in England are pretty decent. They should be, considering they invented the damn things! We rode a quasi-futuristic Virgin train (Richard Branson must own half of the UK) and it was a really great way to see the English countryside: gently rolling hills, fields of sheep and even a pair of deer! Every town on the way seemed to be the same: old brown brick houses with tiny backyards, church steeples rising above the sea of rooves and the odd factory. It must seem to be terribly boring to the average Brit, but I really dug it.
It got dark a little after 4PM. Considering it rises after 8AM and hangs low all day, giving it the impression of always being early morning or late afternoon, it's been quite a change from Ghana, in which the sun rises at 6AM, travels almost directly overhead and doesn't go down until after 5. By the time we changed trains and went into Wales, it was pitch black, save for some town lights and the odd illuminated Welsh sign (I didn't know you could spell "Flint" with two Fs).
After a curious delay involving a strike and donairs (definitely NOT traditional Welsh fare), we departed Holyhead on a high-speed ferry towards Dublin. And let me tell you, the Irish Sea is quite rough. People on the ship were periodically stumbling every 6 seconds from the waves and Maleaha herself was feeling pretty queasy after only 15 minutes. She spent the next two hours looking and feeling greener than the Emerald Isle itself. Suddenly a ferry across the sea didn't appear to be as romantic as I had hoped.
After 10, we arrived at Dublin Port. Anthony was there waiting for us and escorted us onto the bus towards downtown, where his apartment is. We walked down the Liffey, the river that splits the city in two - the prosperous South and the rougher North. Guess which side Anthony lives on? No matter, it's a nice place, with interesting roommates (French, German and Swiss - it's a freakin' UN conference in here) and it looks like Anthony has a pretty sweet deal here.
Anthony is an awesome tour guide as well. He showed us a bit of downtown and we got a pint of Guinness to celebrate before hitting the hay...
Excuse me, could you please direct me to "Swinging London"?
To get downtown to the hotel, we took the London Underground (or "Tube", for those in the know), which was cozy - perhaps too much with all of our bags. It was made even cozier by the busker who came on, playing the Beatles' "Norwegian Wood" on guitar. (If only Accra had more buskers!)
Arriving at St. Pancras station in downtown London was mind-bending for me. Suddenly I'm in a giant metropolis with cars, buses, tightly-packed old buildings, pubs, newspaper stands and even Burger King. The B&B we checked into, the Hotel Meridiana, was no different - hot showers, full bathrooms and television, oh my! After all of this, it was time for a nap.
A few hours later, we went for a walk around downtown - no place in particular. Everything was so immense and tiny at the same time, from the Virgin superstores to quaint flats down the sideroads. We stopped in for fish and chips at a pub (Irish, with a Turkish bartender, Polish service and a peculiar British/West Indian clientele - a testament to the cosmopolitan nature of London) and headed out towards Oxford Street - a main street with shops, restaurants and Christmas lights galore...
To me, it was spectacular. In Accra, it was difficult to remember that it was Christmastime, save for at mass and a few over-decorated Western stores. Suddenly, in less than 24 hours, I was transported to a Western cultural Mecca leading a totally different lifestyle, spending time with Maleaha, eating fish and chips, lots of chocolate and perfecting our faux-British accents. It boggled - and still boggles - my mind. I'll try to keep writing about how I adjust to my new surroundings. But I hadn't much time to dwell on London, because the next day Maleaha and I left for the Emerald Isle...
Arriving at St. Pancras station in downtown London was mind-bending for me. Suddenly I'm in a giant metropolis with cars, buses, tightly-packed old buildings, pubs, newspaper stands and even Burger King. The B&B we checked into, the Hotel Meridiana, was no different - hot showers, full bathrooms and television, oh my! After all of this, it was time for a nap.
A few hours later, we went for a walk around downtown - no place in particular. Everything was so immense and tiny at the same time, from the Virgin superstores to quaint flats down the sideroads. We stopped in for fish and chips at a pub (Irish, with a Turkish bartender, Polish service and a peculiar British/West Indian clientele - a testament to the cosmopolitan nature of London) and headed out towards Oxford Street - a main street with shops, restaurants and Christmas lights galore...
To me, it was spectacular. In Accra, it was difficult to remember that it was Christmastime, save for at mass and a few over-decorated Western stores. Suddenly, in less than 24 hours, I was transported to a Western cultural Mecca leading a totally different lifestyle, spending time with Maleaha, eating fish and chips, lots of chocolate and perfecting our faux-British accents. It boggled - and still boggles - my mind. I'll try to keep writing about how I adjust to my new surroundings. But I hadn't much time to dwell on London, because the next day Maleaha and I left for the Emerald Isle...
Heathrow or Deathrow
I've had enough
I'm jumping on a plane to get to you
It's all arranged
I've only got one bag it's packed
My passports been re-newed
It's all arranged
-The Dears
For almost four whole months, I spent many of my evenings sitting out on the balcony of my room, watching planes take off and land at the airport, always thinking "Someday, that'll be me". Finally on Friday, it was me. I said my goodbyes to Meaghan, Hilde and Leila, three of the best friends I made last semester and went off to wait for my flight. Like them, I felt like I was actually going home...
I took the brand new Ghana International Airways overnight, which didn't disappoint with inflight meals and free drinks (a tea and brandy put me to sleep). By 6AM, we had landed at Gatwick Airport outside of London. I walked out on to to the tarmac in shorts and a t-shirt and the cold winter air woke me up - I didn't feel chilly, but refreshed to feel such cold air that hadn't been conditioned, for the first time in about 10 months! It was wonderful.
My next task was to get my bags and get on over to Heathrow where Maleaha would be landing at 9:20AM (thanks be to God for flight delays). I hopped on a coach shuttle and spent most of the 1 hour journey down the country highway excited/anxious/mesmerized by where I was going and what I was doing. The English countryside at sunrise was a sight to behold...
I got to the waiting area in good time and was there to see Maleaha walk in and she found me easily - like a limo service, I was holding up a sign that read "SWEETNESS". I was so happy, I was on the verge of crying. It was such a wonderful feeling to finally have her back in my arms again. Just like "Love Actually", indeed!
I'm jumping on a plane to get to you
It's all arranged
I've only got one bag it's packed
My passports been re-newed
It's all arranged
-The Dears
For almost four whole months, I spent many of my evenings sitting out on the balcony of my room, watching planes take off and land at the airport, always thinking "Someday, that'll be me". Finally on Friday, it was me. I said my goodbyes to Meaghan, Hilde and Leila, three of the best friends I made last semester and went off to wait for my flight. Like them, I felt like I was actually going home...
I took the brand new Ghana International Airways overnight, which didn't disappoint with inflight meals and free drinks (a tea and brandy put me to sleep). By 6AM, we had landed at Gatwick Airport outside of London. I walked out on to to the tarmac in shorts and a t-shirt and the cold winter air woke me up - I didn't feel chilly, but refreshed to feel such cold air that hadn't been conditioned, for the first time in about 10 months! It was wonderful.
My next task was to get my bags and get on over to Heathrow where Maleaha would be landing at 9:20AM (thanks be to God for flight delays). I hopped on a coach shuttle and spent most of the 1 hour journey down the country highway excited/anxious/mesmerized by where I was going and what I was doing. The English countryside at sunrise was a sight to behold...
I got to the waiting area in good time and was there to see Maleaha walk in and she found me easily - like a limo service, I was holding up a sign that read "SWEETNESS". I was so happy, I was on the verge of crying. It was such a wonderful feeling to finally have her back in my arms again. Just like "Love Actually", indeed!
Monday, December 19, 2005
What's up pt. 2
So we made it by train and ferry to Dublin. It's a fantastic city (downtown looks like York st. in Ottawa with a giant river in the middle) and I'm absolutely stoked to get to know more of it... updates soon, I promise!
Saturday, December 17, 2005
What's up
Hey all, I haven't had the time to post, though I have plenty to say. Here's the basic rundown:
1. Togo and Benin were pretty sweet. French West Africa is something else!
2. Said goodbye to many friends in the last few days. Very sad.
3. I've arrived safely in London with Maleaha. It's really beautiful and it's hard to believe I'm actually here, after four months in Ghana... but we haven't much time here, since we're getting ready to hop the train and ferry to Dublin to meet Anthony tomorrow. Sweet!
So once I'm there, hopefully I'll have the time to post my happenings. See you soon.
1. Togo and Benin were pretty sweet. French West Africa is something else!
2. Said goodbye to many friends in the last few days. Very sad.
3. I've arrived safely in London with Maleaha. It's really beautiful and it's hard to believe I'm actually here, after four months in Ghana... but we haven't much time here, since we're getting ready to hop the train and ferry to Dublin to meet Anthony tomorrow. Sweet!
So once I'm there, hopefully I'll have the time to post my happenings. See you soon.
Wednesday, December 07, 2005
John Hughes, Eat Your Heart Out.
After handing in the final exam paper of the semester, the young man heaves a sigh of relief that had been many months coming. He slings his backpack over his right shoulder and walks confidently away from the Great Hall, away from all of his troubles and into the African sunset, ready for a new adventure. To the sound of the Geto Boys, he walks down the stairs, jumping off the last one with his fist in the air and a lone finger extended. Freeze frame. Fade to black.
Damn it feels good to be a gangsta.
Next up: A week in Togo and Benin. See you around...
Damn it feels good to be a gangsta.
Next up: A week in Togo and Benin. See you around...
Monday, December 05, 2005
"B" is for Books I Shouldn't Be Reading Right Now.
I spent most of today downtown riding tro-tros and running errands in preparation for the fast-approaching travel season. I had many important things to attend to, but what did I do? I went to a second-hand bookstore and bought some books! I picked up Primary Colors, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and Michael Crichton's Timeline - all for about $10. Unfortunately, I have found Primary Colors to be much more engaging than my notes for Management of NGOs, whose exam is tomorrow morning at 7:30. Yikes.
Call me the Bookie Monster, but I've actually read quite a bit this semester, mostly due to the large amounts of waiting for things to happen and extra time in general. Here's a list of what I've been reading:
-Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe - a gift from Dave (thanks!) and an excellent introduction to colonialism.
-Fall on Your Knees by Anne Marie MacDonald - great historical Canadian fiction. Like Anne of Green Gables, but a lot raunchier.
-The Bookseller of Kabul by Asne Seierstad - Afghanistan never looked so bleak!
-Catcher in the Rye by JD Salinger - a must-read for confused teenagers everywhere.
-Arrow of God by Chinua Achebe
Anyways, back to the books...
Call me the Bookie Monster, but I've actually read quite a bit this semester, mostly due to the large amounts of waiting for things to happen and extra time in general. Here's a list of what I've been reading:
-Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe - a gift from Dave (thanks!) and an excellent introduction to colonialism.
-Fall on Your Knees by Anne Marie MacDonald - great historical Canadian fiction. Like Anne of Green Gables, but a lot raunchier.
-The Bookseller of Kabul by Asne Seierstad - Afghanistan never looked so bleak!
-Catcher in the Rye by JD Salinger - a must-read for confused teenagers everywhere.
-Arrow of God by Chinua Achebe
Anyways, back to the books...
Saturday, December 03, 2005
Everybody Come Look At My Beard!
So here's me after not shaving for over a month. Not bad, eh? It took a little while, but it came in pretty well. I've been getting comparisons to Ryan Gosling of The Notebook and Jesus Christ, (from both my roommate AND my girlfriend... weird) so at least I look like someone famous!
I figure that I should work on it while I'm out here, since I'm lazy about hygiene in Ghana anyways. Plus, I've got a long way to go if I'm going to get a beard like my dad! Something tells me I'll come up short on that end...(sidenote: I've since shaven it for the moment)
Also of note: check me out drinking a bag of water(or "sachet" if you want to sound intellectual). Before we came, we were told to ONLY drink bottled water, but they're almost a dollar and these things are five cents a piece. The key is to only drink ones with the Ghana Board of Standards stamp of approval. That's your guide to not getting typhoid (which someone I know did and apparently it really bites).
More Pictures!
Well, it's been over two months since I last updated my photos and it's been way too long. Putting up so many has been a long and expensive process, but I managed to get a good batch of them up. There are more to come in the next few days before I head out, so check back all the way to September for colourful posts!
"The Dark Continent" - A Tale of Two Countries
Something that my friends out here in Accra loathe is the way people love to lump everything from Algeria to Zimbabwe as "Africa". "How are things in Africa?" they say. "I don't know. I haven't seen much of it," we reply. People seem to forget that we are living in Accra, a city in Ghana, which is a country in West Africa, which is in turn part of a continent on planet Earth.
For many, Africa is this mystical place where people go and live in mut hut villages, side by side with monkeys and elephants and eat bushmeat. Maybe in Kenya they do, but in reality, Africa isn't that simple, no matter to what degree politicians and pan-Africanists try to put it into a box. (Heck, look at my blog address... I'm guilty of it too)
In reality, Africa is a much more complex and interesting entity. (For anyone interested, please read Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux) Here's an example of how diverse even two neighbouring countries can be:
On the liberal extreme, South Africa will soon join a handful of countries that has legalized same-sex marriage. Whether you agree with it or not (survey says most South Africans do not), this shows how "nontraditional" an African nation, or at least its government, can be.
Right next door in the wee nation of Swaziland, the country with the world's highest HIV infection rate, the king (yes, it is still an absolute monarchy) cancelled this year's World AIDS Day celebrations for no logical reason whatsoever. Now THAT'S conservative.
While I will only be seeing West Africa, (and only some of it, at that) I'm really excited to see the differences within the area: traditional and modern, French and English systems, military and democratic governments, tribal and cosmopolitan societies, deep jungles and Saharan sand dunes, monkeys and camels... it's a large and heterogeneous land, so the next time you hear something about "Africa" in the news, remember to think twice.
For many, Africa is this mystical place where people go and live in mut hut villages, side by side with monkeys and elephants and eat bushmeat. Maybe in Kenya they do, but in reality, Africa isn't that simple, no matter to what degree politicians and pan-Africanists try to put it into a box. (Heck, look at my blog address... I'm guilty of it too)
In reality, Africa is a much more complex and interesting entity. (For anyone interested, please read Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux) Here's an example of how diverse even two neighbouring countries can be:
On the liberal extreme, South Africa will soon join a handful of countries that has legalized same-sex marriage. Whether you agree with it or not (survey says most South Africans do not), this shows how "nontraditional" an African nation, or at least its government, can be.
Right next door in the wee nation of Swaziland, the country with the world's highest HIV infection rate, the king (yes, it is still an absolute monarchy) cancelled this year's World AIDS Day celebrations for no logical reason whatsoever. Now THAT'S conservative.
While I will only be seeing West Africa, (and only some of it, at that) I'm really excited to see the differences within the area: traditional and modern, French and English systems, military and democratic governments, tribal and cosmopolitan societies, deep jungles and Saharan sand dunes, monkeys and camels... it's a large and heterogeneous land, so the next time you hear something about "Africa" in the news, remember to think twice.
Thursday, December 01, 2005
My Norwegian Friends / Hangin' With Hassan
Out of all the people who are going to be leaving this semester, Hilde and Leila from Norway are two girls that I'll be missing in spades. I haven't known many Norwegians in my lifetime (in fact, I probably haven't met ANY), but they sure make it seem like a rocking country. Friendly people, reindeers and fjords, wealthy socialist economy... Norway has it all!
They're also interesting people. Hilde was in the Norwegian Army (oh no! Not the Norwegians!) and has lots of great stories. Leila is a free-spirit of Palestinian descent and has the coolest accent ever, which I have developed a knack at imitating, to her chagrin. They're both great dinner and travel buddies and are always up for some fun. (I actually had plans to transfer over to the university in Palestine next semester that Leila will be going to, but they hit a brick wall. Ask me about that story sometime...)
Anyways, Leila's dad Hassan is here to visit her for a week and he took us out to dinner, which is always great. (Free dinner + interesting people = an evening well-spent) Yesterday, Leila had an exam, so I brought Hassan along with me to find a traveller's backpack for the winter break. My roommate Patrick was gracious enough to take us all the way downtown to the monstrous Makola Market and soon enough, we found a nice used, sturdy backpack for $20US - it already had a Canadian flag sewn on it!
Patrick had to go home to study, but I got to be Hassan's tour guide for the rest of the morning. We went from Makola (perhaps the heartbeat of the city) on a tro-tro to Osu (the commercial Mecca of Ghana) to see Koala Market, Woodin fabric store, Frankie's bakery and other notable landmarks. Plus we got hassled plenty by hawkers and he was even mistaken for my father. We ended with lunch at a great salad bar (Sunshine Salads) with espresso. Cheers!
They're also interesting people. Hilde was in the Norwegian Army (oh no! Not the Norwegians!) and has lots of great stories. Leila is a free-spirit of Palestinian descent and has the coolest accent ever, which I have developed a knack at imitating, to her chagrin. They're both great dinner and travel buddies and are always up for some fun. (I actually had plans to transfer over to the university in Palestine next semester that Leila will be going to, but they hit a brick wall. Ask me about that story sometime...)
Anyways, Leila's dad Hassan is here to visit her for a week and he took us out to dinner, which is always great. (Free dinner + interesting people = an evening well-spent) Yesterday, Leila had an exam, so I brought Hassan along with me to find a traveller's backpack for the winter break. My roommate Patrick was gracious enough to take us all the way downtown to the monstrous Makola Market and soon enough, we found a nice used, sturdy backpack for $20US - it already had a Canadian flag sewn on it!
Patrick had to go home to study, but I got to be Hassan's tour guide for the rest of the morning. We went from Makola (perhaps the heartbeat of the city) on a tro-tro to Osu (the commercial Mecca of Ghana) to see Koala Market, Woodin fabric store, Frankie's bakery and other notable landmarks. Plus we got hassled plenty by hawkers and he was even mistaken for my father. We ended with lunch at a great salad bar (Sunshine Salads) with espresso. Cheers!
Travel Plans
Well, my last exam is on Tuesday (note to self: start studying) and most people are flying out next week, whether for another adventure or just to go home. It really bites, because now that they're all ready to go home, us veterans who are here until May are feeling like WE'RE ready to go, too.
On the upside, everyone has really sweet travel plans from after exams to the beginning of February. Here's mine!
December 8th - 14th (-ish): Togo and Benin with friends. It'll be neat to have a taste of French West Africa (apparently there are cafés and baguettes everywhere).
December 16th - January 11th: Flying to London, meeting Maleaha, taking the train/ferry to Dublin, meeting Anthony and staying in town for two weeks (including Christmas and New Years!), with some weekend excursions. Then head back to London for a few days of sightseeing and back to Accra.
January 13th - First week of February: Head up North through Ghana, Burkina Faso and arrive at Bamako, Mali to meet up with Joe and Matt in time for the inaugural African Social Forum, a giant open-ended conference on issues of poverty, democracy and economic injustice. Then we'll poke around Mali (which fellow travellers have said is breathtaking) for about a week, before heading back home for classes next semester.
It looks like it's going to be fantastic. After that, I'll be flat broke and it'll be about 3 more months of school and then home again, home again, jiggity-jig...
On the upside, everyone has really sweet travel plans from after exams to the beginning of February. Here's mine!
December 8th - 14th (-ish): Togo and Benin with friends. It'll be neat to have a taste of French West Africa (apparently there are cafés and baguettes everywhere).
December 16th - January 11th: Flying to London, meeting Maleaha, taking the train/ferry to Dublin, meeting Anthony and staying in town for two weeks (including Christmas and New Years!), with some weekend excursions. Then head back to London for a few days of sightseeing and back to Accra.
January 13th - First week of February: Head up North through Ghana, Burkina Faso and arrive at Bamako, Mali to meet up with Joe and Matt in time for the inaugural African Social Forum, a giant open-ended conference on issues of poverty, democracy and economic injustice. Then we'll poke around Mali (which fellow travellers have said is breathtaking) for about a week, before heading back home for classes next semester.
It looks like it's going to be fantastic. After that, I'll be flat broke and it'll be about 3 more months of school and then home again, home again, jiggity-jig...
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